Design Outside the Lines
with John Marshall
Class WebPage
Ashland, OR March 30-April 4, 2025 Crystal Room in the historic Ashland Springs Hotel
Supply Recommendations
click on the icon above to view the suggested materials list page
Welcome to our class web page!
The purpose of this page is to augment our in person program both before and after sessions. Here you'll find a list of suggested supplies you might want to bring along with downloads and supplementary video clips. the material is designed to help you prepare ahead of time, if you choose, and to serve as a refresher once we've all gone home. This page will be up and available to you for one month after the class ends, until May 4th.
Topics of Interest
Virtual Tour of John's Studio
Katazome Start to Finish
showing how surface design may be calculated to match at seams
Colors of the Earth, Colors of the Sky
lecture for Seattle Art Museum discussing the colors and color aesthetics of Okinawa
Textile of the Month Group 2025
Upcoming Textile Printing Course
Sign up for John's newsletter
Password if needed: Design2025
Sunday, March 30
1 pm - 4/4:30 pm
Earlier in the day I'll be setting up in our classroom. You're welcome to come by, drop your supplies off, and just say "hello!"
The daily outline below is intended as a general guide. It may be adjusted along the way to accommodate the real-time needs of the class.
This first session will be a chance to get to know one another - and I see from the class roster that there will be several familiar faces in our group. After everyone has settled in, we'll launch into the basic concepts of Japanese garment design and construction and the broad range of tweaks that may be made to fashion comfortable and stylish creations for modern wear.
Have a question? You're probably not the only one.
Don't see the answer to your question below? Feel free to write me and ask.
Am I required to purchase a kit or supplies for this course?
No. Some unique textiles and other treasures will be available outside of class time during the retreat to inspire you, but none are required for the course. For a list of supplies you may want to considering bringing along with you, click on the icon below.
What do all these styles have in common? They're all based on the humble Japanese field worker's hanten jacket. We'll start off our class with examining how a traditional hanten is constructed and then quickly move on to how it may be jazzed up through minor changes in seam placement and pattern shape. We'll cover how to fit these variations to your body type and charge in on construction.
As a break in the afternoon, we'll spend a little time discussing the delightful Japanese custom of adding charms to clothing. These come in many forms – from 3D constructs to jsut a few simple stitches. However understated or elaborate you choose to make yours, it's always a well appreciated touch.
If I'm flying and can't bring all the supplies with me, or for some reason can't find all of them, will you have some available to us in class?
I'll be driving up, so if you're really having a problem with this, get in contact with me and we can work something out. I will be bringing additional fabrics and other items from Japan and offering them for sale. I'll be listing many them on this web page soon. Feel free to order ahead to enure it will be available to you and I will bring it with me. Otherwise, check out the ssupply page for more options.
How long will this class web page be available to us?
This web page will remain active and available to you until May 4, 2025.
Will we be able to work outside our class time on projects?
I believe Diane has made special arrangements for students to be able to work on their projects outside of class time without lugging everything up to their hotel rooms - be sure to check with her directly for verification and details.
Why is there no sound on the Vimeo links?
The Vimeo links are to the video clips I've prepared for use in our gatherings to allow me to speak over them and so have no sound attached. These will be added to the class page at the end of each day. They are intended for your review only – you won't be able to. download them.
Do I need a password to access any of the links or recordings?
Yes. Use the access code Design2025
What other courses does Diane offer?
Visit Diane's website at https://dianeericson.com/
What other courses does John offer?
Visit John's website at
https://www.johnmarshall.to/workshops-and-programs
Does John have a newsletter?
Yes. The best way to stay current on my upcoming courses, gatherings, and offerings is to sign up for my newsletters. I email them out roughly once a month and include Japanese culture and fiber related topics. Sign up here:
Tuesday, April 1
9:00 am - 4:30 pm (with an hour lunch break)
Pick a shape – any shape! We'll be expanding a bit on the hanten variations covered yesterday by working through some seemingly random shapes – the letter "O", the letter "P", the letter "X", and the Japanese letter "ひ" just to get us started. What's your favorite letter or character?
Monday, March 31
9:00 am - 4:30 pm (with an hour lunch break)
John's work
Japanese tools
historical fashion
basic hanten part 1
basic hanten part 2
basic hanten part. 3
makisode introduction
adjusting sleeves to body
rearranging elements 1
rearranging elements 2A
rearranging elements 2B
altering neck position
adding pockets
adding closed front
basic hanten collar
stitched charms
sarubobo charm
maki mum tatewaku
makisode lengths
Topics and Downloads of Interest
Collars can be challenging but they also present us with a wonderful opportunity to frame our features. We'll start with a range of traditional Japanese collar shapes and run with them as our afternoon diversion.
Make Your Selection
Line drawings of the images I've used in class and other relevant information will posted below. You may want to download them to use as templates or underdrawings to get yourself started on your version of the project covered.
twelve squares to inch graph paper
sarubobo charm
sewing tool links:
Japanese "kote" style iron (US Amazon)
larger "kote" style iron (Japan Amazon)
mini ironing board (Amazon Japan)
kimono lore:
jinbaori/chanchanko preliminary measurements
Wednesday, April 2
9:00 am - 4:30 pm (with an hour lunch break)
Our focus today will be on optimizing the opportunity unusual fabrics afford us – sometimes this will be the challenge of balancing bold patterns, sometimes weaves that seem to have a life of their own, and sometimes finding a way to make the best use of a sentimental scrap. Be sure to bring along your challenges for individualized help.
makisode variations
plotting full body graph
vest 1 measurements
vest 1 sew
vest 2 collar
vest 2 pattern
vest 2 pocket
vest 2 sew
vest 3 design shape
vest 3 sew body
vest 3 sew collar
vest 3 covered snaps
Problem with adding pockets to Japanese-based designs? We'll be covering a range of options in this afternoon's break.
Thursday, April 3
9:00 am - 4:30 pm (with an hour lunch break)
Time to wind up your projects! Today will be spent focusing on giving individualized attention to each of you as we solve any challenged that may have arisen as well as introducing additional techniques to enhance your creative designs.
tablecloth hanten
"P" yuuzen
ひ black wheat waves
ひ red maple leaves
ひ variations
Friday, April 4
9:00 am - noon
Tidy up room, sharing circle, warm goodbyes.