Traditional Dyeing and Weaving: Tategasuri
The term kasuri is employed a bit casually in Japanese and may be used to make reference to the
weave, in which case it may also be called ori-gasuri (織絣), or it may make reference to the dye process, in which case it may be called some-gasuri (染絣).
The dye process involved in kasuri is most commonly a string-resist method, not unlike shibori in concept. In most cases string is used to bind off bundles of yarn before
dyeing. The tied sections resist the dye and remain white, while exposed yarn
takes on the color. During the weaving process, these sections of white are
lined up to create patterns or images. Since there are variations in the ties
along with some wicking of the dyes, the borders of the imagery rarely line up
exactly. This creates the fuzzy edge that gives kasuri textiles their distinctive look.
Many regions specialize in unique weaves, patterns, and dye techniques so that
you are likely to come across such names as Ryuukyuu-gasuri (琉球絣), Kurume-gasuri (久留米絣), Bingo-gasuri (備後絣), and many others. Ryuukyuu, Kurume, and Bingo are names of regions in Japan.
Weaver tying off bundle of threads with tape (above) and the same bundle after
if has been dyed with indigo and the tape removed.
絣・飛白（かすり）とは、模様がところどころにおいて「かすった」ように織られた染め文様、もしくはそのような文様を持つ織物のことである。織りによってそれを表現したのを織絣、染めることによって表現したものを染絣という綿織物が多く、絹や麻等でも織られる。
There is a very famous, versatile artist from Kyoto named Kawai Kanjiro. Perhaps you have visited his studio, which is now a museum near Kiyomizu
Temple. In his book 六十年前の今 (Sixty Years Ago Today) he reminisces about his childhood during the turn of the past century, at one
point describing in great detail how the mother of each household in his
neighborhood designed and wove her own kasuri patterns for her family, jealously guarding her creative endeavors. Her time at
the loom was also the only opportunity she had to be alone in her thoughts
since no one would interrupt her as she made progress, strand by strand and
inch by inch. Kasuri weaving is very much a cottage industry focusing on the production of textiles
for everyday use.
Kasuri has always been considered a casual fabric in Japan, one used for farm clothing
and daily wear, as well as noren, futon covers, and other common needs. Kasuri dyed with indigo on cotton is the first that comes to mind for most people,
although there are also many wonderful hemp, silk, and even wool versions
available in a wide range of colors.
Meiji Era Backstrap Kasuri Loom
You’ll find that most kasuri is woven with a plain flat weave, a structure that gives equal weight and
presence to the warp and the weft. Three versions of kasuri are possible: warp-kasuri (tate-gasuri 縦絣), weft-kasuri (yoko-gasuri 横絣), and a combination of the two called tate-yoko-gasuri, 縦横絣.
RINGO block print by Katsuhira Tokushi (勝平得之), 1940
Tate-gasuri is probably the easiest type of pattern to plan. Even a very few bundles of threads may be dyed to create sophisticated patterns.
For example, let’s take an entire bundle of warp threads and tie it all off in evenly spaced
segments, see 1 in the figure below. Once tied, dip them several times into your indigo vat to achieve a nice rich blue and then untie them to wind up with 2. Shift a set of nine threads on the diagonal as you tie them to the back beam and
thread them through your reed, 3. Stagger one thread (see red arrow in 4 and 5)
and then reverse the direction of slant for the next nine threads, 4. Do this
for the entire width of your fabric and you wind up with what the Japanese call
an arrow-feather pattern, or yabane (矢羽). In this same manner many simple combinations of tied bundles may be staggered
and shuffled to create complex patterns as a feast for the eye.
Fashionable
Yabane Kasuri Kimono
Steps in Preparing Tate-gasuri Threads
