Dye Application
Dyes are applied to fabric stretched on harite and shinshi to create a taut surface upon which to work. Two categories of brushes are used
to apply colors in katazome–jizomebake, used to apply large washes of color, and surikomibake, used for detail work.
The jizomebake should be held as shown on the right. Use your torso as well as
your full arm and wrist during the process. Work quickly. Do not over-saturate
the fabric. This process is known as jizome.
Surikomibake are held perpendicular to the surface of the fabric and the dyes
are ground into the weave. This process is called irosashi. Work in a tight circular fashion and shade into adjacent colors as the brush
looses dye and becomes dry.
Allow each color and each coat to dry completely between applications.
Plan for an average of three coats of dye for each color to build up depth and
quality.
Once you are satisfied with your balance and intensity of color you are ready to
add what are called kumadori, or accents. Kumadori are most often dark or intense colors. They are used
initially to correct mistakes–if you have been a little sloppy, or if there is a drip or an undesirable spot
here or there, use the kumadori to mask the mistake.
Once you have brought all the undesirables back into harmony with the rest of
the design, stand back and take a look at the whole piece. Have the kumadori
created an imbalance of color? Does it make your pattern feel too weighty in
some areas? If so, add more accents to the rest of the design to balance out
the weight. Correct use of kumadori will add quite a bit of life to any piece.
copyright John Marshall, 1991
